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About Us:
We are co-owners of “Winland’s
Twin Lakes Kelly” (Kelly Ann), with Winland’s Boxers in Tiffin,
Ohio. Twin Lakes Boxers is located in Advance, North Carolina.
Kelly comes from a long line of Champions and International
Champions. She will likely be bred in early 2008.
In working in coordination with Winland Boxers, Kelly will be
bred to a Champion stud dog. Winlands and Twin Lakes strive to
ensure the highest standards and integrity of the breed. We both
take great care to ensure the health of our dogs.
Since Kelly is co-owned, Winlands will receive the first and
third puppy of the litter. If you do not find a puppy on our
site, please click the link to Winland Boxers. Winlands is
co-owner on other dogs and may have a litter you can apply for
now.
If you are not looking for a puppy right away, I encourage you
to complete the application. If we have no puppies at the time,
indicate whether you would like me to share your application
with Winlands. I will also keep your application on file.
Background:
We purchased our first Boxer in 1997. We were not educated about
how to purchase a dog and bought our first Boxer from a puppy
mill. I didn’t even know what a puppy mill was at the time. A
puppy mill is where the dog’s sole purpose is to produce puppies
“period”. They are seldom health screened and little care is
taken in breeding. They may cost less than buying from a
reputable breeder, but you will likely pay for it down the road.
Our first Boxer started developing tumors before he was six
months old. He had to endure many surgeries. Finally, one of the
tumors became cancerous and my best buddy died. The surgeries
were expensive, but no amount of money can mend a broken heart.
Educate yourself before purchasing any dog. Ask questions…a lot
of questions.
We purchased our second Boxer in 2000 from a situation like
ours…a co-ownership. What a difference! This dog spent his puppy
hood in a loving home, clean and well cared for. He has had no
health issues and was a pleasure to train. He has his CGC
“Canine Good Citizenship Award”. He is a wonderful dog and is
eager to please.
Our third Boxer came from Winland’s Boxers in Tiffin, Ohio in
2004. If you are in North Carolina, the drive to Tiffin, Ohio is
well worth it. This Boxer had it all! Great looks, great
personality, easy to train and impossible not to love. He has
his CGC and his TDI “Therapy Dogs International Certificate”. He
and I make trips to local nursing homes and sometimes
businesses. His health has been excellent. He is a great all
around dog.
Our fourth Boxer also came from Winland’s in 2006, Kelly Ann.
She is a great girl. At this writing, she is just 9 months old
and is doing great in her classes. She is well on her way to
getting her CGC. After that, we will be trying Rally. Kelly has
had no health problems either.
One thing I have learned about Boxers is that it is good to keep
them busy. A bored Boxer will make up his/her own games, like
landscaping or interior decorating. It’s really good to keep
your Boxer busy. Playing with them will help them bond with you.
I recommend obedience training and keep them in some kind of
class all the time if for nothing but socialization. Boxers
remain big puppies most of their life and they take play time
seriously. They are gentle dogs, but they are rambunctious. When
considering a Boxer, really put some thought into if it. Is this
the right breed for you? Read books and talk to other Boxer
owners.
Fences:
Unless you are really active and jog with your Boxer everyday,
it’s a very good idea to have a fence or a LARGE run. Boxers
need a lot of exercise. Consider getting a six foot fence.
Invisible fences are not that effective with Boxers. If they see
something interesting, they will go right through an invisible
fence. Also, invisible fences don’t keep other dogs or people
out.
Crates:
I do crate train all my Boxers. They are never left for extended
times. The crate becomes their own personal den. Many times my
Boxers will be in their crates with the doors open. Crate
training also helps with housebreaking. Dogs do not like to soil
their living quarters.
Vets:
If you don’t already have a reputable vet, visit several. Check
their references and find out if they have after hours service.
Emergencies rarely happen during office hours. Do this before
you bring your new puppy home. Since dogs age a lot faster than
people, I do a wellness exam on all of my dogs every six months.
Your vet is going to be your dog’s next best friend. Be sure you
choose someone you trust.
Conclusion:
Dogs are NOT disposable. When you buy a puppy from Twin Lakes,
it’s a lifetime commitment. If for some reason you can no longer
care for your dog, regardless of age, it must be returned to
Twin Lakes. Do NOT take your dog to a shelter or
transfer it to someone else before contacting Twin Lakes. We
care deeply about all of our dogs.
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FAQ's
(Frequently Asked Questions)
From Winland Boxers |
AKC:
The American
Kennel Club is a PROFIT making company that is in business to register
dogs. The more dogs they register, the more money they make. They also
oversee the competative events such as hunting dog trials, obedience
trials, agility trials, and confirmation shows to name a few, for which
they charge a fee. AKC's main business is to keep records. Records of
Dogs, breedings, puppies, shows, trials, etc. An AKC registration on
your dog, does NOT, in anyway, proclaim or certify or guarantee or imply
that your dog is a QUALITY dog. It does not even guarantee that your dog
is truly a purebred dog or that the stated parents are really the
parents of your dog. The AKC registration on your dog is only as good as
the people that you bought your dog from and in turn is only as good as
the people that they bought the mother and/or father from. How honest
are the breeders of your puppy and the breeders of your puppy's parents
and grandparents? An AKC registration is similar to a US passport. A
passport does not say that you are a good person, a health person, an
honest person. All a passport says is that you are PROBABLY a US
citizen.
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BACKYARD vs. REPUTABLE
BREEDERS:
Backyard breeders are people that
have no real reason or purpose for breeding other than for money. In
this day and age, there is no excuse for breeding to "see the miracle of
birth" or so that we can have one of Fluffy's puppies (what about the
other 3-8 puppies in the litter, are they all going to have great,
loving, wonderful homes, or are they going to end up in the shelter
within 2-3 years. Or worse, are they going to end up dead on the road?)
Some ways to tell if you are dealing with a backyard breeder: You do not
get a sales contract. You do not get a 4-5 generation pedigree. You do
not get information regarding housebreaking /training/ diet. A reputable
breeder should "interview" you prior to your purchasing a puppy. They
should be concerned about your living environment and the people in the
home. They should be interested in your ability to spend quality time
with the puppy and to properly care for all of the puppy's needs,
finacially and socially. They should be willing to say "I am sorry, I
can not sell you a puppy, because....." A reputable breeder should
always be willing to take your puppy/dog back at any time, for any
reason. No reputable breeder wants to see any of his/her puppies end up
in the shelter/pound. Can your breeder tell you about the grandparents,
great-grandparents, uncles, aunts, cousins of your puppy? Can they show
you pictures of these dogs. Can they tell you what these ancestors died
from? how old were they when they died? A reputable breeder will be able
to do this. A reputable breeder will be able to tell you and advise you
about health concerns, yearly shots, wormings, fleas, ear cropping and
ear aftercare, recommend local vets. A reputable breeder should be
willing to continue this advise and consultation throughout the dogs
life.
COLOR:
Boxers come in 3 basic colors,
2 that are AKC registerable colors. Fawn is a light tan to a
dark reddish brown. Brindle is also a tan to dark brown, but
with black stripes (tiger stripes). Brindles can also be called
reverse brindle or seal brindle if the black stripes are so
thick that they almost cover the entire dog. This makes the
boxer appear to be "black". The third color of boxer is white.
The white boxer is a problem in the boxer community. It is
difficult to separate fact from folk lore; truth from old wives
tales. The American Boxer Club will not allow its members to
breed or sell white boxers; they must be neutered or spayed;
they can not be registered. If you are thinking about purchasing
or acquiring a white boxer, you must be aware that there is a
high rate of deafness in white boxers. There is also a higher
rate of skin problems, diet problems and eye problems.
WHITE BOXERS SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR
BREEDING
FLASHY/PLAIN:
Flashy refers to the amount of
white that is on the dog. All boxers have some white on them.
There is usually some white on the toes, some white on the chest
and belly. This would be referred to as a plain boxer. If it has
white on it's face, a blaze up the center of it's nose and
between the eyes, and or if it has white socks and/or if it has
white on the neck, then this would be considered flashy. Boxers
are allowed to have as much as 1/3 of the body to be white, if
it is going to be shown in AKC conformation. The white markings
should be attractive and even. White markings do NOT make
a better dog. White markings are just that, markings. Just like
pin stripping on a car.
ire a lot of grooming. It is a good idea to set aside
one day each month for you to groom your boxer. At least once a
month you should bath your boxer. The dog/pet shampoos that are
available today are very good. Call your local vet or pet
groomer and ask what brand of shampoo they would suggest. You
should also clean your boxers ears out once a month. Use regular
rubbing alcohol or you can use regular mouth wash. Clean the ear
out using a cotton ball. Another thing you should be able to do
monthly is cutting your boxers toenails We actually do not cut
our boxers nails, we grind them using a DREMEL. A dremel is a
small, hand held wood working tool that has a variety of
attachments including a grinding stone. WORKS GREAT. You can
also "brush" your boxers teeth. Actually you can purchase a
doggy toothbrush and toothpaste at most pet stores. You can also
use a rubber, fingertip, baby toothbrush and regular, plain
Hydrogen Peroxide. One thing you should remember -- it is a lot
easier to start training your boxer to take a "nice" bath, to
have his toenails cut, and to brush his teeth, when they are
puppies. Trying to teach a full grown boxer to sit still while
you do some of this can be quite the undertaking.
FOOD:
Food is a very tricky and
personal subject. There are many variables that can enter into
your dogs and your particular situation. Allergies, cost,
availability, health, etc. In general I do not recommend your
general "grocery store" dog food. If you must try Pedigree.
Better yet find a local pet supply store with a variety of
quality, premium dog foods to select from. VERY BASICLY, my
requirements for a dog food are as follows. Some type of meat
should be the first ingredient. I prefer Lamb or Chicken. I then
look at the ingredients list to see if there is any soybean or
soybean product/by-product. I HATE soybean in dog food. NO
SOYBEAN. I am also not a big fan of corn in dog food. I also do
not want any food coloring or food dyes in the dog food. I do
like dog food that is preserved with Vitamin E and/or Vitamin C.
I personally use Diamond Pet Food. I normally feed my boxer
puppies puppy food until they are about 4-5 months of age and
then switch them to regular adult food.
SPAY/NEUTER:
It is strongly suggested that
you spay/neuter you pet Boxer. It is also suggested that this be
done as early as possible, usually by 6 months of age. Doing
this at an early age is less expensive for you and less
traumatic for your pet. This will prevent numerous problems and
help your boxer live a longer, healthier life.
HOUSEBREAKING:
We strongly suggest that before you
purchase your Boxer puppy, that you first purchase a crate for
your new arrival. You can purchase a large crate and use
dividers while your boxer is just a puppy. It is suggested that
the size of the crate or divided crate be just large enough for
the dog to stand up, turn around and lie down. The crate should
not be large enough for the dog/puppy to "soil" the crate in one
corner and sleep in the other corner. You should have a small
blanket or towel for the puppy to sleep on. A couple of safe
toys and a bucket of water hanging from the side of the crate.
Do not put a bowel of water in the crate for the puppy to go
'swimming' in. The puppy should be fed in the crate. Initially
put the food at the rear of the crate to get the puppy to go in.
The crate is the puppy's den, his bedroom, his play room, and
where you send him when he has been bad. Just like a child being
sent to his/her bedroom when they are bad. In general the puppy
should be in the crate when ever you can not supervise the
puppy.
FENCES
First off, I hate to chain a dog,
any dog. We suggest that you fence your back yard. If this is
not possible, we suggest that you fence a portion or area of
your back yard. You can use modular chain link fence that is
specifically made for this purpose and available at most larger
home/hardware stores. The size can be as small as 4 x 6 feet or
12 x 20 feet by 6 feet high or anywhere in between. If you are
going to fence your back yard, I would suggest again 6 foot high
chain link fence, but wood is also fine. I am not a big fan of
the underground invisible type fence. Boxers in general have a
very high tolerance of pain. If a boxer is in full chase after a
rabbit, cat, or boy on a bicycle, no shock or sound is going to
stop him. Also, if your girl boxer is in season, the invisible
fence is not going to keep out other boy dogs. Second, no dog
should be allowed to spend long periods of time outside,
unsupervised. There are too many nasty, mean, bad people out
there. Also your barking dog may be unwelcome by your sleeping
neighbor. In addition. boxer can and will find a way out of
almost anything. They can jump, climb, dig, or just generally
break out of just about any confined area.
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